This has to be my procrastination project. I started this time last year, but was too scared to cut out my outer fabric so never really got started. When the September Sewmystyle project came around I realised that this was the prefect moment to deviate slightly from the schedule and complete this coat rather than the Named Yona Coat.
The pattern is Kwik Sew K4015. The pattern envelope illustrations are perhaps not that inspiring, but I looked past this to see if I could create a relatively simple lined jacket.
I made very few changes to the pattern. My coat is a straight size small, view B and was inspired by one made by Rosa of Sewn quite a while ago! This is a size up from my measurements, but I wanted plenty of space to fit winter jumpers underneath.
I added side seam pockets and a back stay for functionality and longevity. The back stay should stop the fabric from stretching out at the shoulders and upper back over time, and mine is copied from Gertie’s in a firm cotton and was just machine basted onto the back piece before I began construction.
The main fabric was bought online from Abakhan and is a wool acrylic. I didn’t want to splurge too much on a first coat when I wasn’t sure whether my skills were up to it, or if I would like it when I was done! They seem to be out of the Navy colourway now, but still have the same fabric in black, pink or brown if you are interested. It is quite loosely woven, so I did overlock all my pieces because I was scared that it would slowly unravel and fall apart behind the lining. The lining/contrast fabric is a Rose and Hubble printed cotton with scissors on from Trago. I didn’t have quite enough of this fabric for the inseam pockets (didn’t realise when shopping that this was quite a narrow bolt) so I just used some plain cotton calico for these.
The instructions were generally pretty good. The only place I came unstuck was attaching the sleeve lining to the sleeve. With hindsight I should have anticipated this problem, but the pattern appears to tell you to just sew the cuff seam while the coat is still inside out, before turning through the hole in the lining. This resulted in a Mobius strip sleeve which was comical and impossible to wear! Once I have unpicked my stitching, I turned the coat the right way out and matched the sleeve seam allowances up, before reaching through the hole in the lining to attach them in a more practical way!
Before I stitched the lining closed I decided to add thread chains between the underarm of the lining and the coat, just to help keep these in place with a little room for movement.
I was a little scared of putting buttonholes into this coat, especially with the fraying fabric so I decided to go for snaps. These are Prym Anorak snaps and they have a slightly longer shaft than some of the lighter snaps I have used before. This meant that they actually went through all the fairly bulky layers and seam allowances without any trouble, and my Vario Pliers were amazingly easy to set them in with. Now they match the little eyelets for the hood draw cord too which seems fitting.
Once I stopped procrastinating, this was actually a very easy project, and I was so happy with how it came together. The hood drawstring is functional, though I don’t think I will often need to bring it in.
I like the contrast fabric on show in the patch pockets and hood. It makes it feel personal and unique to me. The sizing seems good. I had plenty of room with a lighter weight jumper, and I think there will still be space for something thicker later on in the winter. And even in a heavy rain shower I stayed dry which was a definite bonus!
I will be tempted to make this again. Probably not this winter, but perhaps in a year or so in a thick cotton twill or even waxed cotton or oilcloth. I think if I did, I would add a channel and some elastic to give a bit more waist definition like Rosa did, but for now I am very happy with my first coat!